Saturday, May 9, 2015

Dining and drinking review: Over the Moon Café

Review and photos by Ted Broussard

Over the Moon Café is located at 709 Opera Alley

Not Quite All the Way Over
Here’s what was on my checklist recently when we invited a close friend to go out to dinner to celebrate her birthday: 1) A place in downtown Tacoma that felt like it was a “special occasion kind of place” without being overly fancy. 2) An intimate, charming vibe where we could talk, laugh and linger over dinner, and 3) Food had to be delicious enough to create a birthday memory. Found it! Over the Moon Café took us all the way to the moon, but just missed taking us all the way over and back.

Charm is the operative word at this Opera Alley location. With old brick walls, an upper and lower dining area and warm lighting from dim candles, eclectic lamps and beaded chandeliers, we did indeed feel that we had arrived in a place over the moon. It’s a small space with only six or so tables in the street level dining area and each one has a different combination of chairs to create a shabby chic kind of look. The downstairs portion has a few more tables and surrounds the busy kitchen. Several of the tables have a little fun surprise to amuse the guests with humor, or to start a conversation while reading a treasure box of love letters, or checking out the big birthday book to find out the strengths and weaknesses of those born on a certain day. It was a nice touch and added to the charm.

Our server had a great smile and was very welcoming and friendly. Service tended to be on the slow side especially as other diners arrived and it looked like there was only one server for all the tables upstairs. Our party was not in a particular hurry on this visit but by the end of the evening, we were ready for the service to pick up a bit. 

For those of us who want delicious food in addition to charm and ambiance, Over the Moon rises to the occasion. I was impressed by how many good choices there were on the menu and each description sounded better than the one before. It’s all about big flavor here. We’re talking fresh herbs, vine-ripened tomatoes and rich creamy sauces. The menu has a Northwest sensibility but also focuses on Italian and French cuisines. We started our meal with Croutes de Fromage, small squares of grilled sourdough bread with beautifully melted Gruyere cheese served with a side of apricot marmalade. It looked like it was right off a Panini press but it was delicious. The house mixed green salad with grapes, mushrooms, sweetened pecans and blue cheese tossed in balsamic and extra-virgin olive oil arrived without the blue cheese but our server brought it out as a side about five minutes later. It was good; not remarkable. Over the Moon Café is known for their crab bisque with tarragon and I’d recommend trying it. It’s very rich and creamy with great crab and herb flavor. My cup portion was served in a larger soup bowl and it looked a little skimpy coming in just under the halfway mark of the bowl. While the taste was great, I was disappointed to find that it was barely warm when served. The rustic bread served with butter was good but I have a thing about serving cold bread. It seems like an easy way to elevate a dinner experience from good to great.

As for entrees, we each chose something different. Our birthday guest chose the very popular bourbon glazed wild salmon filet, pan seared and then glazed in a sauce of bourbon, lime, soy and garlic. It was a big hit with her and the bite I had was sweet and delicious. Easy to see why this is a customer favorite. We also tried the bone-in 10 oz. pork chop, stuffed with Italian sausage and house-made artichoke heart and spinach chimichurri, with Italian parsley, oregano, garlic, and scallions. The chop was perfectly seared and the stuffing flavors blended beautifully. It tasted great, it looked great, and boy, did it smell great as it was served. We rounded out our choices with the jumbo shrimp sautéed in a creamy sauce of white wine, vine ripened tomato and shallots served over linguine with fresh basil. As much of a fan of big flavors as I am, this one was almost too much. The heavy cream, white wine and lemon was just bordering on being overpowering but the fresh basil made it sing. The shrimp was jumbo as promised and perfectly tender. I ate about half of the plate and then took the rest of it home because I didn’t want to risk my arteries clogging in public. https://ssl.gstatic.com/ui/v1/icons/mail/images/cleardot.gif

We shared the warm cinnamon roll “cake” with cream cheese topping for dessert and enjoyed the white cake and cinnamon flavor in the gooey sweet topping. They get extra points for remembering to add a candle for our friend but I promptly removed them when I noticed that they didn’t comp the birthday dessert. 

Over the Moon Café is a charmer with delicious food. The service is a bit slow as they get full, and there were a couple of missteps, but overall I’d still keep it on the list for those special occasions or romantic date nights. Price point is on the high moderate end and the dinner bill quickly gets spendy even without wine or beer. They also serve lunch featuring soups, salads, sandwiches and a couple of macaroni and cheese dishes. 

Over the Moon Café ticks the boxes that many other downtown options can’t: special occasion feel---CHECK; charm---CHECK; delicious food to remember for a while--- CHECK. All things considered, I’d say going TO the moon is close enough for me.

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