Review and photos by Ted Broussard
Salt in French
I knew my high school and college French would come in handy one day. Imagine how smart I felt when I saw the name “Sel” on a new restaurant and I knew right off that it translates to “salt” in English. Too bad that the word “sel” doesn’t translate further into “classy,” “delicious,” and “upscale” because all of those words would equally describe the newly-opened lunch/brunch/tapas and soon to be dinner restaurant in the former Laura’s Bayview site.
The old Bayview Restaurant was either loved or hated by folks who had been there. I’ve heard people say they thought it was great but I’ve heard more often that it was pretty bad and despite the killer view from the deck in back, they just couldn’t bring themselves to go back. I’ve also heard neighbors talk about it being a little out of the way. Granted, the location is a bit of a walk from the Esplanade but you can take the short cut by catching the light rail on Commerce, all the way to the end in the Theatre District, walk up the Elks staircase and on to St. Helen’s Avenue, then turn right and walk just a few blocks further.
My first impression of the restaurant as I entered was, "Wow!" Whoever did the interior transformation gets a gold star for creating a lovely, tasteful environment with natural wood elements, huge wood framed mirrors, crystal chandeliers and the comfiest chairs in town. The deck in back is even more of a surprise. In addition to the knock-out view, you are greeted by reclaimed wood tables, large wicker chairs, a beautiful bundle of branches hung above an oversized table and eclectic furniture pieces that look like they belong in someone’s charming cottage. Outdoor heaters are available for cooler temps, and as a special touch, a stack of blankets is neatly folded just to make sure you’re comfortable.
The food overall is delicious, with a clear nod to French cuisine, and just one misstep on my two visits there. The menu offers several choices including fruit, omelets, sandwiches, salads and a category called “curiosities” along with an impressive wine list and interesting craft cocktail menu. On my lunch visit, my dining companion and I tried the Grilled Chicken Sandwich ($15): “Jidori Chicken, Grilled Onion, Arugula, Avocado and Vinaigrette.” And therein lies the misstep. The “Jidori” chicken had no particular flavor, the onions were not grilled, the arugula was sparse at best and there was no avocado or vinaigrette on the sandwich at all. It tasted like dry shredded chicken on two pieces of dry bread. The bread itself fell apart with every bite creating a crumbly mess. Trying not to show my Southern roots by demanding a jar of Miracle Whip, I decided to tell the server about my disappointment with the dish. She was very polite about my concerns and quickly returned with an apology from the chef explaining their recent difficulties in finding a good fresh bread vendor. They did all the right customer services things and quickly offered me to order something else at their expense. My replacement lunch was a two-thumbs up winner --- an omelet of crispy duck confit, goat cheese, garlic and scallions. Delicious! The eggs were light and buttery and the goat cheese and green onions were perfect partners to the mouthwatering shreds of duck breast. My dining companion’s curiosity was piqued at the Curiosities section and she ordered the Chorizo Tortilla Stack ($12) --- crispy corn tortillas, two eggs over easy, chorizo and refried beans. It was very tasty with great flavor but a little pricey for being served without salad or any other accompaniment other than a small bowl of green salsa.
Undeterred by their one misstep at lunch, I returned that same evening with two companions to try their tapas menu. While the food was absolutely delicious I couldn’t get over the small amount of food on each plate. Yes, I know my Southern roots are showing, and yes, I know tapas are supposed to be small portions not intended to be a full dinner. My frustration is probably more about the selections we made: Pork Risotto Polenta Fritter with Lima Crema (one medium sized fritter for $7), Spanish Chicken Skewer (one for $7), Sautéed Plantains (five French Fry shaped pieces for $6) and Barcelona Deviled Eggs (three halves for $5). These dishes simply did not lend themselves to sharing between three people. We made lots of jokes about being so stuffed we could barely move and all I could think of is where are we going for dinner. I’m willing to own my issue about portion size of tapas but three or four dishes per person could get very spendy very quickly. The cocktails were a big hit with us, offering interesting and delicious riffs on a Moscow Mule and a Tequila Sunrise as well as a delicious Sangria.
The chef de cuisine, Hayley, came out to greet us at our tapas visit and she was very friendly and welcoming. Hayley comes most recently from the now-closed Marrow on 6th Avenue and her talent is very clear. She let us know that Sel would be starting pre-fixe dinner service around mid-October and encouraged us to check their Facebook page to get all the details.
I liked Sel very much and I think they will soon become one of the best restaurants in downtown Tacoma. The physical space is elegant yet comfortable, lunch/brunch offerings are delicious and well prepared (if you stay away from the chicken sandwich) and I anticipate their dinners will be memorable. The best part is you don’t have to know French to have a great meal but feel free to throw in a “Bon Appetit!” just for good measure.
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