Review and photos by Ted Broussard
Update: Sel for Dinner
Last October, I gave high marks for the food, setting and promise of Sel restaurant in the former Laura’s Bayview Restaurant on St. Helens Avenue. Part of that promise was the goal to expand service beyond breakfast and brunch. I’m happy to report that Sel is now serving dinners on weekends with an expansion of happy hour on Sundays coming in mid-March.
When I reviewed Sel earlier, I noted a couple of missteps but an overall very favorable opinion and a prediction that Sel would someday be one of the best restaurants in town. My recent two visits for dinner left me exactly of the same mind. Still a few missteps but thanks to delicious food, great management, service and potential, I’m still calling it a winner. Even with the view deck closed in the winter, Sel’s environment remains an inviting, elegant and comfortable space for an upscale dinner. The heavy, comfortable chairs invite the diner to relax and enjoy in a leisurely manner. The chairs are so comfortable in fact, we had a three-hour dinner one night and didn’t even notice the time.
Sel’s plan is to change the menu every week. The two menus we’ve seen so far seem to emphasize meat, chicken and fish with no particular vegetarian offerings. In a word, the food is delicious. Between our two visits, several items demand to be highlighted. The Sel Salad ($10) is outstanding with a very light and tasty herbed emulsion vinaigrette. The serving size is small at that price point but it is delicious. The Artisan Ham and Potato Chowder Soup ($10) blew us away with its rich, creamy texture and large chunks of ham and potatoes. Onions, carrots and a subtle taste of thyme finished off the dish with a perfect herbed butter crostini to soak up every last delicious drop. Braised Short Ribs ($37) was the winner of all of the entrees we’ve tried. Slow braised and melt in your mouth tender, it was perfection on a plate. Other big hits include the Martinez Ranch Lamb Rack ($34), pan-seared in olive oil and butter, and the Omaha C.A.B. Filet ($37) prepared to order and mouth-wateringly tender.
One misstep on our first visit was the Fish Du Jour ($27), an oven baked whole fish with fresh herbs and olive oil. It arrived fairly undercooked but the server immediately took it back and the chef and owner came out to apologize profusely and to reassure us it would be taken off the bill. Side dishes are a la carte and can get very spendy with smallish portions like fingerling potatoes ($6), sautéed spinach ($5) or Hand Smoked Bleu Cheese, outrageously delicious smoky and crispy morsels at ($6). We enjoyed the crème brulee for dessert but thought the almond flavor was just a bit too pronounced.
The owner, Gabriela, could not be more welcoming or accommodating. She graciously took care of any issues as they occurred and seemed sincere in asking for further feedback. The chef, Paul, came out on both visits and explained that his goal is to provide simple, unpretentious food that tastes good. Servers were earnest, attentive and friendly and always willing to check with the kitchen to confirm accurate information rather than risk a surprise. My only concern about Sel is the a la carte pricing of their entrees and accompaniments. Maybe it’s just my frugal personality, but given the small portion size of the side dishes, I’d like to see them included in the already moderately high entrée price. The quality of food and preparation is well worth the entrée price but if I ruled the world, I’d throw a few potatoes and a spoon full of spinach on the plate all for one price and give my best French accent while wishing the table “Bon Appetit”.
I love Sel. I’ll add it to my list of where to go for special dinner occasions. I’m completely confident that they will find their way with any growing pains as they move to increase dinner service over time. It’s a beautiful restaurant with delicious food and my prediction remains---it will be one of the best restaurants in Tacoma.
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