Review and photos by Ted Broussard
Farm to Table to Tacoma
Let’s say you were a chef and you owned a farm. And you loved trying out new and inventive ways to use the tomatoes, squash, and greens you produced, but you wanted to be able to serve what was actually being harvested at the peak of ripeness. Even if that meant changing the menu weekly or sometimes more often, the farm would call the shots.
And thus begins the story of how the former owner of the fresh pasta restaurant, Arista, in downtown Puyallup, as well as RoastHouse by Arista in Parkland, found his way to transforming the concept and menu of what used to be Café Vincero into downtown Tacoma’s first true farm to table restaurant. The inside of Wilder looks almost exactly the same as when the space was Café Vincero. The mosaic tile still runs vertically up the walls from the tabletops but a huge chalkboard of current and future delights gives a hint that if you’re looking for the traditional spaghetti and meatballs you used to get here, you’re in the wrong place. Now open for just over a month, Wilder Local Fare & Libations serves small plates/dinners and drinks seven nights a week.
On two recent visits, my friends and I were dazzled, delighted and thoroughly impressed by just how delicious fresh produce and other high quality food can be in the hands of a talented chef. Please know that because the menu does change so often, some if not all of the dishes mentioned may or may not be available at another visit. In fact, our first visit was on a Thursday, and when we returned the following Wednesday eager to have one more morsel of the outstanding Plantain Chip “Nachos” with roasted pork, green garlic, jalapeno, tomato, crema and cheese ($12), Cajun Risotto with shrimp and crispy rice ($9) or the Roasted Pork with grilled peaches and grits ($13), we were disappointed to learn that they had all been replaced.
Our disappointment was short lived, however, when the new menu had us singing the praises of Farm Collard Green Chips with sea salt, olive oil and smoky spices ($5), Farm Fresh Kale Salad with French radish, pickled red onion and scratch bleu cheese dressing ($12), and Chicken Pizza with pesto, artichoke heart, ricotta, and sundried tomato ($14). To the last bite, each of these dishes on both visits was outstanding. I took a little exception with the pizza crust being a bit thicker than I prefer, but my dining companions thought it was excellent.
The one repeat on the previous menu on our two visits, is now my new favorite dish of the moment. You have not lived until you try their Sous Vide (pronounced sue-veed) and then Fried Chicken. Sous Vide you ask? I didn’t know either. It’s a method of cooking that means “under vacuum” in French. It involves placing food in a vacuum-sealed bag and then cooking it for a longer than usual time at a precise temperature in a water bath, to cook it evenly and retain moisture. The final step for this dish is a brief fry to give it the crunchy crust we all know and love. All I know is that it is the most tender and flavorful fried chicken I have ever eaten. And being from the South and all, I know my way around a plate of fried chicken.
The Libations part of their name is equally impressive. We tried several of the cocktails with farm fresh ingredients and especially loved the Farmer Boy ($9), Jameson, peach, cranberry, and lime --very refreshing iced tea kind of flavor but with a kick. Also very good was the Blackberry Basil Collins ($11) -- Alibi, local blackberries, honey, basil, soda; the War Mule ($8) -- vodka, ginger beer, fresh grated ginger, lime; and the Strawberry Mojito ($8) -- rum, local strawberries, fresh mint, lime, soda. There is a limited wine list but good prices from $5-$12 by the glass.
The service was always friendly and helpful. If you’re going with a group, don’t expect to have all of your dishes delivered at once. Apparently they do not use a heating tray so dishes come out as they are ready. I didn’t see any mention of gluten free choices on the menus but vegetarians and plant-based devotees will find much to love. We sat on their outdoor patio on stools at a counter facing Pacific Avenue to avoid the overly warm dining room, and other than watching dogs sniff every tree and pole on the sidewalk and overhearing the occasional lively discussions of people in front of the Odd Otter, it was very pleasant.
Overall, I’m thrilled with Wilder Local Fare and Libations. Their Facebook website publishes an updated menu, and the good news is that they are now offering a large selection of small plates to share but also seven dinner plate choices for a more traditional kind of dinner experience. I was a bit worried that the small plate only focus might keep some people away, but the addition of dinner entrée choices along with the exceptional quality of product and preparation sets Wilder apart, and moves them to the front of the pack for farm to table in Tacoma.
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