Review and photos by Ted Broussard
Almost Church
Long-standing neighborhood diners and big churches in small towns have a lot in common: They both attract generations of regular congregants, people often go there seeking comfort and friendship, and they inspire an almost sacred loyalty. Alfred’s Café, at the foot of the Tacoma Dome, is such an icon. I’ve been hearing people rave about it ever since we moved here and now I’m starting to see the light. Although I wouldn’t go so far as to use the word “amazing” as many Yelp reviews do, Alfred’s is a tried and true no frills diner that complements very good food with excellent, friendly service.
Rumor has it that the Alfred’s building was once a bordello. It’s retained much of its architectural charm if you enter through the bar on the right. If you come in through the left as you enter, you may think that you got lost and wound up in a random ice cream parlor. You didn’t. It’s just a good remodel idea gone bad because no one thought through how the two looks might work together. You may also notice the indoor shooting range just across the parking lot. While you might hear the shots as you walk by, no one as far as I know, has actually been shot at Alfred’s as a result of their location.
Breakfast is the big draw at Alfred’s. Portions are large and they have an extensive selection of omelets and other expected entrees. On a recent visit, I tried the regular Eggs Benedict ($12.99) with O’Brien Potatoes. The Benedict came in a little cold and the hollandaise got pretty thick very quickly. The overall taste was good if you looked past the gelatinous sauce but the potatoes were excellent---crispy on the outside, tender on the inside and perfectly crisp-tender green and red peppers. My dining companion tried the California Omelet ($10.49), nicely stuffed with avocado, bacon, tomatoes and cheddar cheese and served with her choice of toast. I was impressed with how full it was with a nice blending of flavors and she enjoyed it, but was disappointed that her first choice of the Chili omelet was not available that day. It was a good second choice but the Chili omelet is still number one in her book. Her hash browns were crisp and delicious.
On another visit, I tried the Monte Cristo ($12.99) based on the server’s strong recommendation. It was huge as you might expect and was very tasty with generous slices of turkey, ham, cheddar, Swiss and pepper bacon. My only complaint was the two pre-packaged “Freserves” freezer jam packets thrown on the plate. Maybe it’s asking too much, but it would be nice to have a little side jar of jam. House made would be a bonus but I’d be happy just to not deal with the plastic containers.
In chatting with my server, I learned that Alfred’s draws big crowds every day for breakfast and lunch but weekends are particularly packed with a line out the door. She told me they do get a smaller dinner crowd but most people that time come to have a drink. Service was excellent and friendly on each of my visits.
Alfred’s Café is the big church of the Tacoma Dome neighborhood. People talk about having gone there for years and the reliable comfort food and bountiful breakfasts ensure strong loyalty. Alfred’s is not fancy and boasts no particular frill except good food and excellent customer service. It may not be a full-fledged church but regulars will tell you that you’re on your way to heaven.
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